A Destination We Never Thought We’d Visit
Siberia…for many people, it may simply be a land of extreme cold. But for us, it became one of those places that is far more beautiful than the word “cold” could ever describe.
If someone asked us, “Why Siberia?”The short answer would be…Because of a photo on the internet.
Type your paragraph We first saw Lake Baikal several years ago and quietly kept it on our travel bucket list ever since. Earlier this year, when the opportunity finally came, we booked the tickets without thinking twice.here
The Kind of Trip Review That Will Make You Want to Go
We recommend arriving at the airport about 3–4 hours before departure.Our journey began from Bangkok on S7 Airlines.S7 6310
BKK 17:00 → IKT 00:25
One of the biggest advantages of this flight is that you don’t have to take the whole day off work. You still have plenty of time in the afternoon to finish packing, double-check your documents, and head to the airport without rushing.
We arrived at the airport at around 2:30 PM to allow extra time for check-in, as we had heard that Baikal becomes surprisingly popular during the winter season.
After immigration, we grabbed something to eat because we knew that in just a few hours, we’d be arriving in a country where the temperature was well below zero.
Sitting at the departure gate felt strangely different.
When traveling to Japan, Korea, or Europe, we usually have a pretty good idea of what to expect.
But Siberia…
The only image we really had in our minds was simply…
“Cold.”
The flight departed right on time, and everything slowly became quiet.
We spent some time watching the flight map on the screen as our route gradually left Thailand, crossed China, and headed toward the southern side of Lake Baikal.
A little after midnight, local time, the aircraft began its descent.
The very first thing we noticed through the window was…
How dark it was.
There were almost no city lights like the ones we were used to seeing.
Only a few narrow roads and long stretches of orange streetlights.
At that moment, the only thought that came to mind was…
“So…we’ve really made it to Siberia.”
Our flight landed at Irkutsk Airport at 12:25 AM.
The airport isn’t very large, but everything moved quite quickly.
It didn’t take long to collect our luggage before heading outside.
The moment the airport doors opened…
the cold air hit us immediately.
It was around -20°C, but surprisingly, it didn’t feel as painfully cold as we had imagined. The air was very dry, and with the right winter clothing, walking outside was actually quite comfortable.
The drive from the airport to the city center took around 15–20 minutes.
Along the way, the roads were quiet, snow lined both sides of the streets, and the warm orange streetlights made the city feel even more peaceful than we had expected.
There was nothing planned for tonight.
Check in.
Take a shower.
Set the alarm.
And get some sleep.Because tomorrow would be our very first day of truly getting to know Siberia.
We recommend staying at Baikal Forest Hotel,
or any comfortable 4-star hotel in the city center, making it easy to begin your journey the following morning.
From Our Experience
We found this flight schedule to be one of the best options because it doesn’t take away an entire sightseeing day.
Although you arrive late at night, you still get a full night’s rest and can start exploring the very next morning without feeling exhausted.
Compared to itineraries with multiple layovers, this route saves both time and energy, allowing you to enjoy the trip from the very first day.
We woke up at around 8:00 AM on our first morning in Irkutsk.
As soon as we opened the curtains, the first thing we saw was snow covering almost every rooftop. Thin smoke drifted gently from the chimneys of the houses across the street. There weren’t many cars on the road below, and the city was so quiet that we could even hear the sound of someone pulling a suitcase across the snow.
Our very first thought was…
This city didn’t feel as harsh as we had always imagined Siberia would be.
After breakfast at the hotel, we got dressed and prepared for the day. Today’s plan was simply to explore the city at a relaxed pace. Nothing too demanding—just taking some time to get used to the weather first.
Our first stop was 130 Kvartal, and it’s free to visit.
It quickly became our favorite area in Irkutsk.
Many people imagine Siberia as a city full of grey buildings, but this neighborhood is completely different. It’s lined with beautifully restored wooden houses, cozy cafés, local restaurants, and souvenir shops stretching along both sides of the street.
We stopped at a small café, ordered a hot latte, and simply sat there watching people walk by.
Somehow, the rush of life back in Bangkok just disappeared.
Even though the temperature was below zero, the locals were still out enjoying their day as if it were completely normal.
From there, we continued to Church of the Savior and Kazan Church.
Even if you’re not particularly interested in churches, we still recommend stopping by. The architecture is beautiful, especially in winter when a thin layer of snow rests gently on the onion-shaped domes.
Inside, everything was peaceful.
Local people quietly came in to light candles and pray.
Everyone spoke so softly that we naturally found ourselves walking and speaking more quietly too.
Just nearby is the Angara River,
the only river flowing out of Lake Baikal.
When we visited, parts of the river had already frozen, yet water was still flowing through the middle. It was such an unusual sight because it’s not every day that you see a river flowing and frozen at the same time.
The weather was cold, but the sunshine was much stronger than we expected.
If you’re visiting in winter, bringing a pair of sunglasses is definitely a good idea, as the reflection from the snow can be surprisingly bright.
For lunch, we visited Ulus Restaurant,
well known for serving traditional Buryat cuisine.
One dish we highly recommend is Buuz—large steamed dumplings filled with meat and rich broth. Just be careful when taking the first bite, because the soup inside is incredibly hot.
Another favorite of ours was the lamb soup.
There’s something about a steaming bowl of soup on a freezing day that simply feels perfect.
In the afternoon, we walked around Central Market.
If you really want to know what local people eat and how they live, we believe the market is always the best place to visit.
Inside, you’ll find everything from smoked omul fish, cheese, honey, dried fruits, tea, herbs, and caviar, to heavy winter boots.
This was also where we tried smoked omul for the first time.
The flavor wasn’t too strong. The texture was firm with a light smoky aroma, and it tasted even better than we expected when paired with black bread.
For dinner, we chose Kochevnik Restaurant.
The restaurant is decorated in the style of Siberia’s nomadic tribes, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
We ordered Beef Stroganoff, and another dish we’d definitely recommend is the Venison Steak.
Before coming here, we expected venison to have a strong gamey flavor.
Surprisingly, it was much more tender than expected, with a smooth and delicate taste.
As we walked back to the hotel, the temperature had dropped to around -20°C.
The streets were even quieter than before.
Only the warm orange streetlights and the snow reflecting beneath our feet accompanied us on the way back.
Our first full day in Siberia wasn’t filled with dramatic landscapes or exciting adventures.
Instead, it was the day that helped us slowly get to know the city.
A gentle beginning…
before heading out to meet the magnificent Lake Baikal over the next few days.
From Irkutsk to Lake Baikal…the day we finally understood why so many people fall in love with this place.
We left the hotel at around 8:30 in the morning.
After loading our luggage, our driver picked us up in front of the hotel, and we began our journey to Listvyanka, a small village on the shore of Lake Baikal. The drive took about an hour.
Along the way, the scenery slowly changed from the city to endless pine forests.
Almost everything on both sides of the road was covered in snow. The houses were spaced far apart, and at times we drove for several minutes without seeing a single car coming the other way.
The closer we got to Lake Baikal, the colder the air became.
Our first stop of the day was Chersky Stone. From the parking area, we took a cable car to the viewpoint. The ride only took a few minutes.
At first, we thought it would just be another scenic viewpoint.
But the moment we stepped onto the viewing platform…
everyone stopped walking.
Right in front of us was Lake Baikal.
The first word that came to mind wasn’t “beautiful.”
It was… “Huge.”
Much bigger than we had imagined.
If nobody had told us it was a lake, we probably would have thought it was the sea because the opposite shore was nowhere to be seen.
When we visited, ice had already begun forming along the shoreline, while the middle of the lake remained deep blue against the snowy mountains in the distance.
The view was simple.
But somehow, the longer we looked, the harder it was to look away.
We spent about half an hour up there.
Before we knew it, we had already taken almost a hundred photos.
After coming back down, we stopped by the Baikal Museum.
To be honest, we’re usually not the type to spend much time in museums.
But this one was surprisingly interesting.
It tells the story of Lake Baikal from its origins and ecosystem to the unique wildlife that calls this place home.
There’s also an aquarium where you can see the famous Baikal seals.
In real life…
they’re much rounder than they look in photos.
After the museum, it was time for lunch.
Our guide took us to a restaurant right by the lake.
We ordered Grilled Omul.
Before the trip, we had always wondered how omul was different from salmon.
After trying it ourselves, we found the meat to be firmer, leaner than salmon, and much milder in flavor.
Served hot with potatoes and black bread, it was a simple meal…
but somehow it tasted perfect in the cold weather.
After lunch, we continued to the Omul Fish Market.
Even if you don’t plan to buy anything, it’s still worth stopping by.
Most of the shops display rows of smoked omul hanging in front of their stores, and the gentle aroma of wood smoke follows you as you walk through the market.
Besides fish, you’ll also find local honey, herbal tea, fruit jam, and plenty of souvenirs.
There was no rush in the afternoon.
We simply spent our time walking along the lakeshore.
Life here seemed to move at a slower pace.
Families were out playing in the snow with their children.
Fishermen were drilling holes through the ice.
And almost every tourist we saw had a camera in hand.
For us, the best part about staying one night in Listvyanka was that there was no need to hurry.
We had time to sit and enjoy the view.
Time to stop whenever we wanted to take photos.
And time to truly take in the atmosphere—something that’s hard to experience on a quick day tour.
We were lucky that the sky cleared in the evening.
The sun slowly disappeared behind the mountains, while soft orange light reflected across the thin layer of ice along the lakeshore.
There was no music.
No drones filling the sky.
Only the sound of the wind…
and the gentle water touching the edge of the ice.
It was the quietest moment of the day.
But somehow…
it became the moment we remembered the most.
The hotel wasn’t luxurious.
But the best part was that the lake was right outside the front door.
Before going to bed, we left the curtains open.
Because we knew…
the very first thing we wanted to see when we woke up the next morning…
was Lake Baikal once again.
Mayak Hotel – Listvyanka
One of the biggest advantages of Mayak Hotel is its location right beside Lake Baikal.
You can easily walk to the fish market, nearby restaurants, and the pier without needing another car ride.
It’s a perfect place to spend your first night by the lake and truly enjoy everything Listvyanka has to offer at your own pace.
From Listvyanka to Olkhon Island…the day the scenery outside the window was too beautiful to fall asleep.
Before going to bed last night, we checked the weather forecast on our phones.
The thing we were hoping to see wasn’t the temperature.
It was the words…
“Ice Crossing Open.”
If the ice is thick enough, vehicles are allowed to drive directly across Lake Baikal.
If the ice is thick enough, vehicles are allowed to drive directly across Lake Baikal.
If it’s not safe yet, everyone has to use the ferry or take the longer road instead.
That’s one of the advantages of visiting in late February—the chances of the ice road being open are much higher.
After breakfast, we left Listvyanka at around 8:00 AM.
Today would be a longer travel day, taking around 5–6 hours to reach Olkhon Island.
It sounds like a long drive.
But in reality…
almost nobody fell asleep.
Because the scenery outside the window kept changing.
From small villages…
to pine forests.
From pine forests…
to endless snowy fields.
And then back to another quiet village again.
Our favorite part was driving through the countryside.
Each wooden house had a small chimney, with white smoke slowly rising into the deep blue sky.
It looked exactly like something you’d see in a Russian movie.
But seeing it with our own eyes somehow felt much warmer than we expected.
Our driver stopped every now and then so we could stretch our legs.
None of those places were tourist attractions.
Yet somehow…
they became the places where we took the most photos.
Fresh white snow.
A straight road disappearing into the distance.
And a UAZ parked right in the middle of the landscape.
Sometimes…
you don’t need a famous landmark to take a beautiful photo.
Around lunchtime, we stopped at a small local restaurant along the way.
There weren’t many dishes to choose from.
Mostly soup, rice, potatoes, and beef.
The best thing about eating at a local restaurant is that everything is served piping hot.
When it’s around -20°C outside,
simply holding a warm bowl of soup already feels comforting.
By the afternoon, we arrived at Sakhyurta.
This was the moment when everyone reached for their cameras.
Because right in front of us…
was the frozen surface of Lake Baikal.
If the ice road is officially open,
the vehicles slowly drive straight onto the lake.
We have to admit…
we were a little nervous at first.
Even though we knew the ice was nearly a meter thick and inspected every year before being opened,
seeing a vehicle actually driving across the lake still felt surreal.
After a few minutes,
the nervousness disappeared.
All that was left was one thought…
“This doesn’t even feel like a road anymore.”
Everything around us was white.
It became almost impossible to tell where the ice ended and where the sky began.
Along the way, our driver stopped for a short break so we could walk out onto the lake.
The moment our feet touched the ice,
we stood there quietly for a while.
Not because we were afraid.
But because it felt so unreal.
We never imagined that one day we’d actually be standing in the middle of a frozen lake.
Later that afternoon, we finally arrived in Khuzhir, the main village on Olkhon Island.
The village isn’t very big.
There’s one main road, a few small cafés, convenience stores, and guesthouses scattered around.
Everything felt much simpler than we had imagined.
No luxury resorts.
No shopping malls.
No tall buildings.
Yet somehow…it had its own unique charm.
After checking in, we walked to Shamanka Rock.
It only took a few minutes from the hotel.
Luckily, we arrived just before sunset.
The evening light gently reflected across the cliffs and the frozen lake below.
There was no music.
Only the sound of the wind.
And other travelers quietly standing beside us, enjoying the same view.
We don’t think this is a place where you should rush in, take a photo, and leave.
Tonight, we’re staying at Baikal View Hotel.
After dinner, we stepped out onto the balcony one more time.
The temperature had dropped to around -24°C.
It was so quiet that we could hear the wind brushing across the snow.
Tomorrow is the day everyone has been waiting for.
The day we’ll finally go in search of Baikal’s famous blue ice.
Baikal View HotelOne of the most popular hotels on Olkhon Island, offering lake views from many of its rooms and serving as a convenient starting point for North Olkhon tours.
Many people expect that they’ll be able to drive across the frozen lake every winter.
In reality, whether the ice road opens depends entirely on the local authorities each year.
If the ice isn’t thick enough, all vehicles must use the ferry or an alternative route instead.
Safety always comes first.
And honestly, we think that’s exactly how it should be.
Because nature is something no one can force.
Nobody fell asleep on the road today…because the view outside kept stealing everyone’s attention.
Last night before going to bed, our guide sent a message to the group.
“Tomorrow, please be ready by 9:00 AM.
The temperature will be around -23°C, the wind won’t be too strong, and it should be a beautiful day.”
Just reading that message was enough to make us excited.
Because today was the day we were heading to the northern part of Olkhon Island to visit Cape Khoboy, a place that many people say is the most beautiful part of Lake Baikal during winter.
After breakfast, a big green UAZ was already waiting outside the hotel.
You could almost call this the signature vehicle of Lake Baikal, as it’s built to handle snow and ice with ease.
There were eight of us in the vehicle—our whole group.
Everyone was bundled up in so many layers that we could barely recognize each other.
Not long after leaving the village,the road disappeared.
Everything in front of us became one giant sheet of ice.
At first, we kept looking around, wondering,
“Where are the traffic lanes?”
Eventually we realized…
There weren’t any. 😂
Our driver was navigating entirely from experience.
Of course, the route we were driving on had already been officially opened and inspected for safety.
But even then,
driving in the middle of a frozen lake still felt unbelievably strange.
At our first stop,everyone got out of the vehicle almost at the same time.
Nobody had to say,
“We’ve arrived.”
Everyone simply reached for their cameras.
Because right in front of us…was the famous Blue Ice.
In reality, the entire lake isn’t bright blue like many people imagine.
Instead, the ice is crystal clear with beautiful shades of blue hidden inside.
Some parts appear darker.
Others lighter.
It all depends on the thickness of the ice and the sunlight that day.
As the morning sun moved across the sky,
the colors of the ice kept changing.
At that moment, we completely understood why photographers love coming here early in the morning.
The light really is better.
Throughout the day, our driver didn’t just take us to the famous spots.
He was constantly checking the condition of the ice.
Sometimes, he’d suddenly leave the main route and simply say,
“The ice looks better over here.”
For us,this is exactly why traveling with a local guide makes such a difference.
They don’t follow Google Maps.
They follow the ice.
Our next stop was an Ice Cave.
If you’re wondering whether it looks like the photos…
The answer is yes.
But the size is never the same.
Some caves are only big enough for a few people.
Others are spacious enough to explore from several different angles.
The ceilings are covered with naturally formed icicles,and no two winters ever look exactly alike.
Our guide told us that some caves that were spectacular last year might disappear completely this year.
At the same time,
new caves may appear somewhere else instead.
Close to noon, we stopped beside a dramatic cliff.
This was Cape Khoboy.
The wind was stronger here than anywhere else we’d been that day.
Strong enough that we had to pull our hats down a little tighter.
The landscape was incredibly open.
No trees.
No buildings.
Just cliffs, snow, and Lake Baikal stretching as far as we could see.
It was a very simple view.
But the longer we stood there,
the more we realized that no camera could truly capture how vast it felt.
Lunch today was unlike any other.
Our guide opened the back of the vehicle and brought out a large pot of hot soup.
There was fish soup, black bread, sausages, fruit, and hot tea.
We all sat together…
right in the middle of the frozen lake.
The temperature was well below -20°C.
Yet somehow,
one bowl of hot soup made this one of the most memorable meals of the entire trip.
During the afternoon, we continued visiting several more places,
including Ice Grotto, Crystal Ice, and cliffs covered with layers of frozen ice.
At around 4:00 PM,we headed back to Khuzhir.
The vehicle was much quieter than before.
Not just because everyone was tired.
But probably because we were all busy scrolling through hundreds of photos on our cameras.
Back at the hotel, we had dinner together.
The menu was simple—barbecue, grilled lamb, baked potatoes, and salad.
Nothing fancy.
But after spending the whole day in sub-zero temperatures,
hot food somehow tasted even better.
Before going to bed, we looked through the photos we’d taken.
The funny thing was…
the pictures were beautiful.
But somehow,
the real place was even more beautiful.
And honestly,
that’s something you don’t experience very often these days.
Another great thing about staying on Olkhon Island for several nights is that you don’t have to pack your suitcase every day.
After the tour, you can simply take a shower, relax for a while, and head back out to Shamanka Rock whenever you feel like it.
Many people come to Lake Baikal hoping to see the famous Blue Ice or the ice caves they’ve seen on social media.
But in reality, there isn’t a fixed location.
Some years, the most beautiful spots become covered with snow.
Others change completely as nature reshapes the ice.
That’s why local guides adjust the route every day, taking visitors to wherever the ice is at its best at that particular time.
For us, that’s actually one of Baikal’s greatest charms.
No two trips will ever look exactly the same.
The day we went chasing crystal-clear ice…but nature was the one deciding what we would actually see.
Before coming to Lake Baikal, we had saved countless photos from Instagram and Pinterest.
Most of them were pictures of Bubble Ice, Mirror Ice, and crystal-clear ice that looked just like glass.
But on our very first day here, our guide said something that stayed with us throughout the entire trip.
“Don’t chase the photos you see on the internet. The ice changes every year.”
At the time…
we didn’t fully understand what he meant.
Until today.
After breakfast, we left the hotel at around 9:00 AM.
Unlike yesterday, today’s route wasn’t fixed.
Our guide simply told us,
“Today, we’re going to look for the most beautiful ice we can find.”
It sounded a little unusual.
But once we started driving,
we immediately understood why.
Some areas that had been open yesterday were now covered with fresh snow.
Other places that had been perfectly clear just a few days earlier had completely disappeared beneath a new layer of snow.
Nature really does change every single day.
Our first stop was a huge frozen plain.
At first glance,
it didn’t look like anything special.
But once we walked closer and looked down,
we noticed that the ice beneath our feet was filled with Bubble Ice.
Some areas contained hundreds of bubbles.
Others had only a few.
Our guide explained that these bubbles are formed when methane gas rises from underwater plants and becomes trapped between layers of ice during winter.
Seeing it in person was far more impressive than we expected.
They weren’t just bubbles.
They looked like tiny pieces of artwork created by nature itself.
No two sections of ice were ever the same.
The vehicle then took us to another location.
The moment we stepped out,
everyone naturally started walking more slowly.
Because the ice in front of us was unbelievably clear.
Clear enough to see the cracks and details deep beneath the surface.
Our guide smiled and said,
“This is what many people call Mirror Ice.”
We lowered our cameras close to the ground and took a few photos.
That’s when we finally understood why pictures from this place become so popular online.
It really feels as if you’re standing on a giant mirror.
One important thing, though…
Walk carefully.
Not because the ice is thin.
But because it’s incredibly slippery.
A good pair of Ice Cleats makes a huge difference.
Later that morning, we came across a long Ice Crack stretching for dozens of meters across the lake.
At first,
it looked a little intimidating.
But our guide explained that cracks like these are completely normal during winter.
As temperatures rise and fall,
the ice naturally expands and contracts, creating loud cracking sounds.
The night before,
we had actually heard deep rumbling noises from our hotel.
At first, we thought they were cars passing by.
Later, our guide laughed and told us,
“That wasn’t traffic… it was the lake moving.”
It sounded strange.
But here,
it’s perfectly normal.
Lunch was simple once again.
We stopped at a small restaurant on the island.
We ordered Buryat Dumplings,
while our friends chose Smoked Omul.
In the end,
we all ended up sharing everything anyway.
Personally,
we preferred the smoked omul.
The fish wasn’t dry at all, the smoky flavor was just right, and it paired perfectly with boiled potatoes.
The afternoon was all about photography.
Our guide never rushed us.
He simply said,
“The light is beautiful here. Take your time.”
We really liked the way local guides work here.
Instead of rushing from one attraction to another,
they let us spend more time in each place.
At some stops,we stayed for nearly half an hour.
Just walking around.
Watching how the light changed across the ice.And finding our own favorite angles.
For anyone wanting something extra,
many visitors hire a local photographer,
or rent a Snowmobile to reach places that regular vehicles can’t access.
If you’re looking for something a little more fun,
there are also Husky Sled experiences available.
We didn’t try every activity.
But honestly,simply spending the entire day walking across Lake Baikal already felt more than worth it.
We returned to the hotel earlier than the day before.
After a shower,
we walked back to Shamanka Rock one more time.
It was strange.
The same place.
The same viewpoint.
Yet everything felt different.
The evening light had changed.
The wind had changed.
Even the ice looked different.
That’s when we truly started to believe…
Lake Baikal is one of those places where,
even if you come back again,you’ll never see exactly the same view twice.
Staying on Olkhon Island for several nights means you don’t have to pack your luggage every morning.
It also gives you the flexibility to adjust your plans according to the weather, which is a huge advantage when visiting Lake Baikal during winter.
If your main goal is to photograph Bubble Ice, try not to expect it to look exactly like every photo you’ve saved online.
The bubbles, the clarity of the ice, and even the best locations change every winter.
Sometimes, just one night of snowfall is enough to completely cover the bubbles beneath the surface.
That’s why trusting your local guide and embracing whatever nature offers on that particular day often leads to a much better experience than trying to recreate the exact same photos you’ve seen on social media.
Buguldeika…not the most famous place, but somehow our favorite day of the trip.
We left the hotel earlier than usual today.
The journey ahead was quite long.
While we were driving, our guide said,
“If the sky stays clear today, you’ll see Buguldeika at its best.”
All we could do was hope for good weather.
Because throughout this entire trip,
we had learned that almost everything depended on the weather.
As we got closer to Buguldeika village,
the scenery began to change again.
Fewer tourists.
Fewer cars.
And noticeably quieter than Olkhon Island.
We really liked that feeling.
It felt like we were heading somewhere that hadn’t become crowded yet.
Our first stop was Marble Quarry.
An old marble quarry surrounded by snow-covered mountains.
The white stone stood out against the deep blue sky.
There were plenty of angles to photograph.
It wasn’t a huge attraction,but the location looked much better in person than we expected.
Our first stop was Marble Quarry.
An old marble quarry surrounded by snow-covered mountains.
The white stone stood out against the deep blue sky.
There were plenty of angles to photograph.
It wasn’t a huge attraction,but the location looked much better in person than we expected.
From there, we drove closer to the lake.
And this was the moment we finally understood why people call the ice in Buguldeika
“glass.”
The ice was so clear that we could see straight through to the surface underneath.
In some areas, there was barely any snow covering it.
When the sunlight hit the surface,the ice reflected the light almost like a real mirror.
Several people put their bags down and spent a long time taking photos.
Nobody was in a hurry.
Because the view in front of us made us want to stop and look,
rather than simply walk past.
As we walked around,
we started noticing something.
The ice looked completely different from one area to another.
Some sections were Transparent Ice.
Some had Bubble Ice.
Others were covered with long cracks that looked almost like patterns across a giant piece of glass.
And that’s what makes Lake Baikal different from most other destinations.
It may be one lake,
but the scenery keeps changing depending on the location and the weather.
Around noon,
we stopped for lunch at a small restaurant in the village.
The menu was simple as always.
Soup, meat, potatoes, and bread.
After several days in Siberia,
we had started to notice that the food here wasn’t heavily seasoned.
But every meal had one important purpose.
It warmed us from the inside.
And perhaps that’s exactly why locals eat this way.
In the afternoon,
before heading back to Irkutsk,
our guide stopped the car one more time.
There was no sign.
No famous landmark.
He simply said,
“Let’s get out and walk for a while. In a few months, all of this ice will be gone.”
Everyone stepped onto the frozen lake.
Nobody said anything.
There was only the sound of the wind,
and our footsteps against the ice.
We stood there for about five minutes.
No photos.
No phones.
Just looking at the view in front of us.
Sometimes,
the best memories don’t always need to be inside a camera.
By evening,
we finally arrived back in Irkutsk.
After spending several days on Olkhon Island,
returning to the city felt almost like returning to civilization.
Coffee shops.
Supermarkets.
More cars on the roads.
Tonight, we checked in at HISTORY Boutique Hotel & SPA.
The room felt a little more comfortable than before.
After a warm shower,
I opened the photos on my phone.
And only then did I realize…
Most of the photos from today
weren’t photos of ourselves.
They were, once again, mostly photos of the scenery.
And perhaps that’s the best answer to how beautiful Buguldeika really is.
After several nights on the island,
coming back to the city for our final night felt much more comfortable.
The rooms are spacious, the beds are soft, and there is a spa available.
The hotel is also not far from 130 Kvartal,
making it a convenient place to relax before exploring Irkutsk the next day.
Buguldeika isn’t included in every Lake Baikal itinerary because getting there takes quite a bit of extra travel time.
Many tour companies choose to spend that time on Olkhon Island instead,
making the journey easier and more comfortable for their guests.
But if you’re into photography,
or simply want to discover places without large crowds,
we think Buguldeika is worth adding to the itinerary.
The atmosphere is noticeably different from Olkhon,
and it offers another side of Lake Baikal that still feels beautifully natural and untouched.
We weren’t chasing ice today…but somehow, this became the day we truly experienced life in Siberia.
After waking up early for tours for several days,
today was the first morning without an alarm.
We could wake up whenever we wanted.
Take our time with breakfast.
And there was no car waiting outside.
It felt completely different from the days before.
We think every good trip should have a day like this.
Because if you go sightseeing every single day,
you may end up remembering only that
“we saw everything.”
But you may not remember what it felt like to
“actually live there.”
After breakfast,
we walked out of the hotel without any particular destination.
It was around -18°C.
The sun was shining, but there wasn’t much wind.
It turned out to be one of the most comfortable days for walking during the entire trip.
Many cafés were just opening.
Locals were walking to work with coffee in their hands,just like any ordinary morning.
Tourists were slowly starting to come out as well.
We stopped at a small café,
ordered a hot latte and a croissant,
and stayed there for almost an hour.
We weren’t doing anything special.
Just watching people walk by.
And somehow, we realized that this city wasn’t only about Lake Baikal.
It also had a way of life that was just as charming.
Later in the morning,
we decided to try a Siberian Banya.
Before coming here,we thought it would probably be similar to a regular sauna.
But after trying it,
we realized it was completely different.
You start inside a hot steam room.
Then come outside to cool down.
Some people even go out and roll around in the snow.
Others pour cold water over themselves.
We decided that simply sitting and resting was enough for us.
We weren’t brave enough to jump into the snow like the locals.
After spending a little over an hour there,
our bodies actually felt lighter and more relaxed than expected.
We finally understood why banya culture is such a big part of life in Russia.
If you still have some energy left,
there are plenty of activities you can add to the day.
Snowmobile, Dog Sled, or Husky Sled.
We decided to try Husky Sled once.
The route wasn’t very long,
but it gave us another way to experience Siberia.
The dogs were incredibly energetic.
The moment it was time to run,
it was almost as if every single one knew exactly what to do.
There was no fixed plan for the afternoon.
We simply walked around and stopped at a few souvenir shops.
In the end,
we brought home Sea Buckthorn tea, honey, chocolate, and a few fridge magnets.
We decided to leave the caviar and smoked omul until the last day,
so we wouldn’t have to carry them around for several days.
Another thing we really liked about Irkutsk was the café culture.
The cafés weren’t particularly large,
but almost all of them had a warm and cozy atmosphere.
The coffee was good,
and the prices were reasonable.
Many cafés also served homemade desserts like Honey Cake and Napoleon Cake,
which went perfectly with a cup of hot tea.
We spent most of the afternoon sitting in cafés,
going through all the photos we’d taken throughout the week.
Slowly scrolling from the very first day.
And that’s when we realized…
It had only been eight days,
but somehow,it felt like we’d been here much longer.
In the evening,
we walked back to 130 Kvartal one more time.
The atmosphere was quite different at night.
The lights on the old wooden buildings started to come on.
Restaurants became busier.
Locals came out for dinner with their families.
We simply walked around slowly.
There was no rush to buy anything.
Because we knew this would probably be our last evening to truly enjoy the city.
Tonight, we returned to HISTORY Boutique Hotel & SPA.
We packed about half of our luggage in advance,
leaving only the things we’d need for tomorrow.
As we slowly packed,
we started to realize…
This trip had gone by much faster than expected.
It felt like we had only just been standing on Lake Baikal yesterday.
Souvenirs We Recommend
Siberian Honey
Sea Buckthorn Tea
Smoked Omul (best purchased close to your departure)
Caviar
Russian Chocolate
Local Wooden Crafts and Baikal Souvenirs
After several days of leaving early in the morning,
tonight was the first night that truly felt like a proper rest.
The hotel has spacious rooms,a quiet atmosphere,and is close to plenty of restaurants and cafés.
It’s also comfortable for an evening walk around the neighborhood.
If you don’t have many days in Irkutsk,
we recommend not trying to fill every hour with activities.
The city doesn’t have many spectacular landmarks,
but its charm comes from simply walking around,
but its charm comes from simply walking around,
sitting in cafés,
and experiencing everyday life at a slower pace.
After spending several days exploring the snow and ice of Lake Baikal,
having a relaxed day like this makes the whole trip feel more balanced.
It gives both your bod
yand your eyes
a chance to rest
before heading home a few days later.
The last day with nowhere to rush to…yet somehow, the day we didn’t want to end.
We woke up earlier than usual this morning.
Even though there was nowhere we needed to rush to.
Maybe because we knew that tomorrow, we’d be flying home.
Just like every morning,
we opened the curtains.
A light layer of snow was still falling.
There weren’t many cars on the road.
Everything looked exactly the same.
But somehow,
it felt completely different.
We intentionally kept today’s schedule light.
Partly because we wanted it to be a backup day.
Winter travel in Baikal always comes with one thing you can’t control—the weather.
If heavy snow had closed a route on one of the previous days,
we could have used today to visit the places we’d missed.
Luckily, the weather had been quite kind to us throughout the trip.
So instead,
this became a full day of simply walking around the city.
After breakfast,
we headed to the Icebreaker Angara.
A historic icebreaker that is now preserved as a museum along the river.
It’s not necessarily a place every tourist visits.
But if you’re interested in the history of Siberia,
we think an hour here is well worth it.
Walking around the deck,
it was easy to imagine what it must have been like when this ship once pushed its way through the frozen waters of Lake Baikal.
It made us realize that life in this part of the world was never easy.
From there,
we stopped by the Volkonsky House Museum.
An old wooden house that once belonged to a Russian noble family.
Inside, much of the original furniture and atmosphere has been preserved.
It’s not a large museum,
but it’s surprisingly enjoyable to walk around.
Especially if you want to see another side of Irkutsk—one that’s not only about nature.
Later in the morning,
we went back to 130 Kvartal one more time.
This time, we were actually serious about buying souvenirs.
We ended up with several more boxes of Russian tea,
along with the fridge magnet we’d promised ourselves we wouldn’t buy.
But, of course…we bought it anyway. 😂
For lunch,
we went back to the same restaurant we’d visited on our first day.
Sometimes,
returning to the same place before going home feels like closing the circle of a journey.
We ordered Pelmeni—hot boiled dumplings served with sour cream.
It’s a simple dish,
but while eating it,
we suddenly started thinking…
once we were back in Thailand,
we might actually miss food like this.
There wasn’t anything particularly special planned for the afternoon.
We simply stopped by a bookstore,
a café,
and a supermarket.
Bought a little more chocolate.
Another bottle of honey.
And somehow,
our luggage ended up almost five kilograms heavier than when we arrived.
When we got back to the hotel,
it was finally time to properly pack.
The winter clothes we’d worn every day.
The boots covered in traces of snow.
The gloves we’d originally thought we wouldn’t even need.
Everything was slowly going back into the suitcase,
one piece at a time.
And somehow,
that was the moment it really sank in—the trip was actually coming to an end.
That evening was our Farewell Dinner.
Nothing fancy.
No special outfits.
Just a nice restaurant somewhere in the city.
Everyone sat around talking about their favorite photos,
their favorite places,
and the moments that stayed with them the most.
And eventually,
everyone started saying the same thing.
“If we get the chance…we’ll come back.”
Before heading back to the hotel,
I took one last walk along the Angara River.
The air was colder than the night before.
But somehow,
it didn’t feel as cold anymore.
Maybe our bodies had finally adapted.
Or maybe,we had simply started to feel at home in this city.
Tonight was our last night in Siberia.
We set the alarm for 5:30 AM.
Checked our passports one more time.
Checked our flight tickets again.
Then turned off the lights.
Before falling asleep,
the last thing on our minds wasn’t what time we had to fly tomorrow.
It was a much simpler question.
“If we get the chance, would we come back here?”
The answer was already clear before we even closed our eyes.
“Absolutely.”
For our final night,
we chose to stay in the city for an easier transfer to the airport the next morning.
The journey from the hotel to the airport takes approximately 15–20 minutes.
From our experience,
we recommend keeping the final day flexible like this rather than filling it with more sightseeing.
Winter travel around Lake Baikal always depends on the weather.
If heavy snow closes a route or prevents you from visiting somewhere earlier in the trip,
you still have a day to adjust the plan and visit the places you missed.
But if everything goes according to plan,
simply taking your time in Irkutsk,
walking around,
buying souvenirs,
and enjoying one last meal can be a much better way to end the journey than rushing around trying to check off more places.
The Last Day… Time to Head Home
We woke up around 5:30 AM this morning.
After packing our bags and checking all the travel documents, we got ready for the airport because our flight from Irkutsk was scheduled to depart at 10:45 AM.
After breakfast, we left the hotel at around 6:30 AM.
We allowed plenty of time for the drive to the airport, check-in, baggage drop-off, and the airport procedures, so there was no need to rush.
On the way, Irkutsk was still very quiet.
Snow covered the streets on both sides, and there were only a few cars on the road.
We simply sat by the window and watched the city pass by.
And somehow, we started thinking about how quickly the past eight days had gone.
When we first arrived, we barely knew what to expect from Siberia.
And now, we were leaving with a suitcase full of memories.
We arrived at the airport around 7:00–7:30 AM, leaving enough time to check in, drop off our luggage, go through the airport procedures, and relax before boarding.
S7 Airlines S7 6309
Irkutsk (IKT) 10:45
Bangkok (BKK) 15:50
And just like that, our Siberian journey came to an end.
Siberia… until we meet again.
Written by Tidpae Journey | Premium Private Travel
Real journeys. Meaningful memories.
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